Magome to Tsumago with a kid and my aunt

Walking the Nakasendo Trail

March 2023

Why do the Nakasendo trail?

During the pandemic lockdown as I slowly became addicted to YouTube, I saw this video about the Nakasendo trail and dreamed of going to the old post towns with their enchanting streets of traditional architecture and hike the mountain trails between these towns. Because, two of my favorite things are traditional Japanese architecture and hiking in the woods. So when we returned to Japan in the spring of 2023, I convinced my 58 year old aunt who lives in Yokohama to joined my 11 year old son and I for this journey.

The Nakasendo is a historic route used during the Edo period from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo). The route was used by shogunate officials, famous poets and tradesmen. There were 69 post towns along the route that serviced the travellers. Parts of the original route and some of the old post towns are still well preserved especially in the Kiso Valley in Nagano Prefecture of central Japan. Today people hike this section of the route for the peaceful forest paths that wanders past streams, waterfalls, old farm houses, and charming old towns.

Visiting the well preserved old post towns of Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Narai-juku is like stepping into the samurai past. You can just visit these towns separately. Or you can also hike the 8 kilometer trail either from Magome to Tsumago or vice versa, which takes around 3-4 hours and is the easiest scenic section. It is not difficult to navigate on your own as there are plenty of signs and rest stops along the way. From Magome, it is an initial 2.2k uphill hike, 190m elevation gain to Magome Pass and then gradual downhill to Tsumago. I figured this is very possible for my son and aunt to manage.

How to get to Magome

We started our journey to the Nakasendo by arriving at Nakatsugawa train station via Nagoya. The bus stop to Magome (about 30 min ride) is to the left of the train station as you exit the station; there is a visitor’s information office next to the bus area if you need help with bus schedules. Wait in line for the bus. It is first come first serve. The bus does not take Pasmo or Suica cards. Take a ticket when you board. Bring extra coins for the fare which you pay when you get off. Kid’s fare is half.

The bus took us up mountain roads with views down the valley; some sections of the windy road were so narrow only one car can pass at a time. The bus stopped at Ochiai to let off a group of foreign hikers; it looks like they are doing the hike to Magome from Ochiai.

Magome

The bus deposited us off at the bottom of Magome. The town is about 600m above sea level. It is a walk uphill on the main path through the small town so be mindful of the kind of luggage you bring along. We dropped off our wheeled carry-on bag at our Japanese ryokan (guesthouse) Tajimaya, which was thankfully not too far up the hill, and went looking for lunch and explore the town.

Magome is set up for visitors with restaurants, shops and museums to see along the main road with a backdrop of mountains in the distance. During the day, a few tour buses stop here but it was not crowded. If you want to stay overnight, there are limited accommodation so book ahead and make sure you have dinner reserved as it is a small village and most businesses are closed at night.

What to do at Magome

A Kiso area culinary specialty is soba (buckwheat) noodles. We stopped at Soba Restaurant Mikazukian for delicious soba and tempura in a modern Japanese dining setting.

Next we wandered further up hill to the lookout point at the top end of the town and then came down to Cafe Kappe, a dessert shop with a fantastic mountain view for Japanese dessert and ice cream. We passed a couple of museums (which were closed that day), a coffee place with pastries and two rest stops. One of the rest stops is a really neat old watermill house worth stepping in to check out. The other one has free wifi.

The old watermill house rest stop. The watermill now generates electricity.

Our stay at Magome

Our accommodation, Tajimaya ryokan, is a 110 year old building that extends surprisingly deep to the back of the property. Rooms are comfortable and clean traditional tatami rooms with shared baths, shared sink area and toilet rooms. The baths are big enough only for one person at a time. Japanese homestyle dinner and breakfast are included and served in the dining area. After our dinner, we had a relaxing soak in the cypress bath and then admired the peaceful picturesque town in the evening.

Seasonal allergies

Since we came at the end of March there were beautiful cherry blossoms everywhere. On the other hand, it was spring tree pollen season. And in the mountain regions, the pollen count was high. We all were sneezing quite a bit so bring your allergy medicine if you come during this time.

Walking the Nakasendo trail to Tsumago

The next morning, we dropped off our luggage at the Magome information center. The tourist information at Magome and Tsumago provide luggage forwarding service for a small fee if you drop them off in the morning (8:30-11:00 the last time I checked). We can then hike unencumbered and pick up our luggage in Tsumago. Also at this information center, we found a free collection of bamboo walking sticks that we were able to use for our hike.

The trail to Tsumago starts at the lookout point area at the top of Magome and we walked on forest trails, roads, stone steps, and gravel paths. We rang the bear bells that are along the trail (no bear sightings for us). The uphill part was not too strenuous but we did get a bit sweaty in the warm sunny day and stopped by for a drink and rest at Juri, a cute restaurant on the trail up the mountain.

Stop by the beautiful waterfalls on the trail

We took our time hiking. There were some fellow hikers on the trail but for the most part, we were walking by ourselves. Closer to Tsumago, we stopped for tea and a rest at the historic teahouse Tateba. In the past, an elderly gentleman lived there. These days, the teahouse is maintained by friendly attendants who keep the hearth fire going and greet travellers with free tea (by donation). There are restrooms next to the teahouse.

Wildlife on the Nakasendo Trail

Just as we stepped away from the teahouse, we happened upon what looks like a cross between a shaggy dog and a goat. It turns out to be a Japanese serow - an unusual looking mountain antelope-goat that is supposed to bring luck to those who see one. It is a national symbol of Japan. It was nibbling peacefully on the plants along the trail. We didn’t want to get too close — afraid to scare it away.

In all it took us 4 hours to get to Tsumago. There was some “hangry” grumbling from the kid towards the end of the hike. Thankfully we arrived in Tsumago in time for a late lunch and more ice cream.

Tsumago

Gohei-mochi - grilled rice cake with walnut miso paste, a local specialty

I really liked Tsumago; it feels less polished than Magome and is more of an authentic village with the streets lined with old wooden buildings. And there was one place I definitely wanted to see in Tsumago: Waki Honjin-Okuya.

Visiting the Waki Honjin-Okuya

The old post towns have a “honjin” (primary inn) where historically the highest ranking official or lord would stay. In addition, there is the “waki honjin” which is the back up housing for the officials. For the waki honjin in Tsumago which is now a museum, I have seen amazing photos of the hearth and the light streaming from the windows into the main space. Apparently the best time to see the beams of light is during the winter around noon.

We were a bit late in the season and in the day but it is still a beautiful space. While we sat admiring the space, the museum attendant gave us a demonstration of the traditional hierarchy of the seating positions around the hearth.

moss garden courtyard at the Waki Honjin

After walking through the museum of the Waki Honjin, we picked up our luggage at the Tsumago information center. In hindsight, it would have been a good idea to have reserved a place to stay for the night in Tsumago so we can relax after the hike and take our time enjoying the atmosphere of the town. Especially for the my son who was not enthused about the prospect of taking another bus from Tsumago to Nagiso and then train to Kiso-Fukushima where our next accommodation is located. It makes for a long day for a kid. We ended up taking the taxi to Nagiso train station because we wanted more time in Tsumago and the bus left earlier in the afternoon. Be sure to keep in mind the schedule of the bus when you do your hike.

Kiso Fukushima

We arrived at Kiso-Fukushima late afternoon and took a taxi from the station to the ryokan (it is walkable but the kid was tired). Kiso-Fukushima is also a post town in the past but it is a larger town with it’s own historical attractions as well. There are signs around where the Nakasendo trail passes through the town.

Our accommodation for one night is at Kisoji no Yado Iwaya (Iwaya Inn). We were greeted warmly by the 90 year old grandmother who ran the 350 year old ryokan with her family. Our room is one large tatami room with a table and private bathroom. There is onsen bath in the ryokan as well with indoor and outdoor bath. We did not reserve their kaiseki (multi plate/course) dinner so found a cozy izakaya (informal eatery for drinks and light foods) around the corner that was recommended by the ryokan.

The following morning, we walked to the Kiso-Fukushima train station for our next adventure to Matsumoto.

We all enjoyed our trip and hike from Magome and Tsumago tremendously. I would very much like to do more of the Nakasendo trail that precedes Magome and continues after Tsumago. We also did not have the chance this time to explore more of the other post towns in the Kiso valley.

Options for the Nakasendo

You can stay overnight at any of the towns before hiking this part of the Nakasendo: Nakatsugawa, Ochiai, Magome, Tsumago, Nagiso and Kiso-Fukushima. Depending on where you stay, you might need to bus, take the train or add extra time to hike to Magome or Tsumago. There are also other post towns such as Narai-juku to visit requiring further train ride. If you don’t want to figure out all the travel logistics, I know of people who highly praised their multi-day walking package tour that include guided hikes from town to town and stays at traditional inns (see links below).

What to bring for Magome to Tsumago walk:

Luggage that you can maneuver up and down the slope of Magome (or use luggage transport to your next destination and bring a smaller bag).
A backpack for the hike to store water, snacks, etc, depending on the season and your needs
Good walking shoes with decent grip. A pair of sneakers will do. I wore my Vessi’s and did just fine. My son wore his running shoes. My aunt wore hiking shoes which she was grateful for the extra stability. If trying for the winter months, bring something for snow/ice if in the forecast.
For those with seasonal (tree pollen) allergies, bring some allergy medicine.
Extra coins for the bus fare
Research in advance the bus schedules that you need to take so you can plan your hike times.